Should you really do that with a ester like Enanthate that has a melting point of body temperature?You have to heat it in the microwave. Water boils at 212 so the solution will remain intact but the water will evaporate. You’ll have to heat it up considerably higher than 212 and stir it. Then continue to heat and stir, repeating until it stops emitting moisture vapor.
I had this happen too when I first started brewing a year ago and of course, first hormone was test e. What Synergy said is spot on because the boiling point, notSynergy Forge" pid='74897' dateline='1573921376:
Should you really do that with a ester like Enanthate that has a melting point of body temperature?You have to heat it in the microwave. Water boils at 212 so the solution will remain intact but the water will evaporate. You’ll have to heat it up considerably higher than 212 and stir it. Then continue to heat and stir, repeating until it stops emitting moisture vapor.
That’s the reason I don’t mess with enanthate. Base, Ace, Prop, PP, Cyp, are all capable of standing up to heat, but to me E isn’t.
This is fine as melting point is just a transition between solid to liquid.Synergy Forge" pid='74897' dateline='1573921376:
Should you really do that with a ester like Enanthate that has a melting point of body temperature?You have to heat it in the microwave. Water boils at 212 so the solution will remain intact but the water will evaporate. You’ll have to heat it up considerably higher than 212 and stir it. Then continue to heat and stir, repeating until it stops emitting moisture vapor.
That’s the reason I don’t mess with enanthate. Base, Ace, Prop, PP, Cyp, are all capable of standing up to heat, but to me E isn’t.
Would just leaving the mix on a hotplate for a while at a high enough temperature be enough?You have to heat it in the microwave. Water boils at 212 so the solution will remain intact but the water will evaporate. You’ll have to heat it up considerably higher than 212 and stir it. Then continue to heat and stir, repeating until it stops emitting moisture vapor.
Throwing the unfiltered oil in a beaker and putting it in the oven at 250F to start, hopefully this removes the extra moisture content. After this I’m going back to GSO or starting to use Sesame Oil.A hot plate is not going to get it hot enough to remove the moisture. I guess I don’t know how much you are trying to heat but in my experience it doesn’t get hot enough. You can put a thermometer in it and determine it for yourself. If I had to guess, I would say you’ll need to get it to 200 C to be effective but that is not exact. You’ll know when it starts to get hot enough because it’ll start making noise as the water turns to vapor at the source of the heat. Sounds like you are farting in the tub for lack of a better example.
Definitely have gone to heats of 170 C with brews like injectable dbol (have to to avoid crashing) and them being very effective. However, I understand that there hasn’t been studies and maybe the BB, BA, and carrier oils may have something happen. I personally won’t be happy giving someone foggy brew; it probably won’t do anything at all (although water seems like it would be more prone to bacteria) but it’s definitely not preferred.The talk about the different phases from solid to melting to boiling point where the molecules begin to break away from each other.
I’m not sure this is relevant. The bottom line is you should only use enough heat to dissolve your steroid in oil and then filter it.
No one has ever produced a study where each steroid has been exposed to heat in oil at above 200F for extended periods and seen what this does to steroid efficacy.
Home brewing in one sense allows you to know exactly what is going into your batch and how sterile you want to attempt to keep it. We heat our vials often times because we don’t trust UGL when it comes to injections or in the case of crashed vials.
So to the OP I would most certainly not heat up this batch with MCT if all you’re worried about is water droplets as most of us have injected water based compounds and they cause no problems as long as it’s sterile.
I’d still like to see some pictures just for educational purposes and I agree, homebrew with GSO, you can buy large bottles of prefiltered sterile GSO for cheap on ebay, this is what I feel using for my own brew is the most safe. Texlabs and Alpha both put out this product, I use tex lab supply.
And that is solid advice. Go with an oil that has been sterilized and filtered from a company that knows what they’re doing, and dry sterilization in the oven of your glassware is what most of us do as the finishing step before we use it to brew.The best solution, however, is to avoid water in the first place for next time. I use M840 from medlabgear and GSO for everything, I make sure all of my beakers/media bottles/vials are dry by sterilizing them in an oven (obviously water won’t stand the heat too), and store everything in a dry place.
5 gallons for $500 is amazing. Not sure where else to get it though if they decide to go out of business.gunderschlaagen26" pid='74958' dateline='1574009165:
And that is solid advice. Go with an oil that has been sterilized and filtered from a company that knows what they’re doing, and dry sterilization in the oven of your glassware is what most of us do as the finishing step before we use it to brew.The best solution, however, is to avoid water in the first place for next time. I use M840 from medlabgear and GSO for everything, I make sure all of my beakers/media bottles/vials are dry by sterilizing them in an oven (obviously water won’t stand the heat too), and store everything in a dry place.
I’m gonna assume the MCT that was used wasn’t sterile filtered oil from someone that is preparing carrier oils which often are heavily used by those of us in the AAS community. MedLabgear probably knows a big chunk of their business comes from us.